Showing posts with label Game Night Blog Carnival. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Game Night Blog Carnival. Show all posts

2012-03-27

Game Night Blog Carnival: Car Wars Card Game

Welcome to the Game Night Blog Carnival for March 2012! You can get more information about the carnival at the main Game Night site.

Sometimes after a particularly hard week at work, I don't want to play anything even remotely cooperative. For those weeks, the autoduelling arena calls. Pick your vehicle and shoot your friends, breaching their vehicular armor, putting them out of commission, and hoping to be the only survivor in Car Wars: The Card Game.

I happen to own both versions.
Original  Edition 1991 on the left,
Second Edition 2001 on the right.
Car Wars for Card Game Players
Steve Jackson Games put out Car Wars in 1981. The paperback-sized plastic case held hundreds of tiny paper markers for vehicles, pedestrians, smoke clouds, mines, and other hazards. The setting behind the game capitalized on the energy crisis and popular post-apocalyptic fears, set a consistent 50 years in the future. In Car Wars the world crisis steered clear of the Cold War turning hot in favor of oil running out. Manufacturers switched to electric cars and someone started strapping weapons to cars when the government started falling apart. Then the armed car fans got organized into the Autoduelling Association of America, the AADA. Rules of engagement were laid down, and postmodern blood sports became the stuff of high-paying prize purses and fame for the lucky drivers.

Car Wars was fundamentally a miniatures game with RPG-like rules covering all manner of situations and maneuvers, but the game tended to focus on tournament play in the Autoduel Arena. A crowd enters and whoever has the luck and skill to survive gets rewarded. This simple idea drove the development of something a little lighter in the rules department.

Car Wars: The Card Game came out in 1991, and the second edition followed in 2001 which also included cards to allow combining sets with the Battle Cattle card game. Extending that timeline forward means we're overdue for a third edition or at least a reprint. Right, Steve Jackson? It retailed for $24.95, but it's out of print. You can find copies for around $40 on Amazon and eBay, though I did see a set listed for $8 on Board Game Geek.

The cars remained the same,
but the cards got updated
with better graphics in a
much sleeker black.
Components
The game comes with six vehicle cards, all mechanically identical with different names and vehicle graphics, and a deck of cards. The cards come in three basic varieties:
  1. Attack cards have a weapon type (Machine Gun, Missile, Autocannon, or Flamethrower), attack value (3, 4, 5, or 6, respectively) depicted with convenient bullet holes for easy tracking on your car's armor, and an armor facing so you know what you're shooting at. Some cards have Called Shot instead of an armor facing, so you get to decide which side to attack when you use it. You can also attack tires directly with a Called Shot card. Pro Tip: Since the game is about taking out everyone else in the arena, always attack when you can.
  2. Armor cards always stop 3 points of damage. They always include an armor facing, and there's no way to change the facing on an armor card.
  3. Special Cards, which covers everything else including Spin and Swerve cards to avoid damage, and attack negation cards by weapon type. More on these later.
There's also a rule sheet, but that's it. Being a card game, the cards control everything. I played my first edition into the ground (notice the wear in the picture), and it took me a while to start liking the slick graphics on the second edition cards, but now that's the set I usually use.

Each of the cards has text describing its effects. Sometimes it may drone on a bit, but it's handy for people learning the game, and the bold graphics let you readily identify the card once you've learned how it works. The cards are nicely laid out and intuitive to use when stacking them on your vehicle to depict damage or other lasting effects.

Game Play
Car Wars: The Card Game needs 2 to 6 players and somewhere around 20-30 minutes to play. It works well for kids who can handle basic strategy and who can understand the text on the special cards, so I wouldn't recommend it for kids younger than 8 to 10 - your children and mileage will vary. More players doesn't usually mean a longer game since everyone attacks a side where you don't have armor and you only replenish cards on your turn. Defensive cards are rarer than attack cards to ensure carnage.

My rear armor has been
breached. And that attack
with the flamethrower means
my driver is crispy.
Game over for me.
On your turn, you draw up to 6 cards in your hand and take one action. You can attack, play a special, or just discard down to 5 cards. If you're sitting on a hand full of special cards and armor, discarding may be your only option.

When you attack, you indicate who you're attacking in what armor facing and with what weapon. That player gets a chance to defend using armor or special cards. You track damage by stacking attack cards on the armor facing so everyone can easily see how damaged your vehicle is. I love the armor card design; you play armor so it covers one row of damage on the attack card (see the right side in the photo). You can play multiple armor cards to armor away an attack, but it must be on the turn the attack took place - no retrofitting armor in the arena.

Breaching an armor facing means flipping over the cards on that side, like the rear armor facing in the photo. After that, attacks to the rear hit the driver. Once your driver takes 5 points of damage, you're out of the game. I've won games with 4 points of damage to my driver and one point of armor left on my entire vehicle. I can just imagine the trophy ceremony, the battered driver spitting out bloody teeth and wincing when raising the trophy overhead. Good times.

The weapon negation cards add a nice twist. Each targets a single weapon type. Dud Missile just negates a missile attack entirely, but the rest of them have other effects. Machine Gun Jams prevents the attacker from playing machine gun attack cards (the most common in the deck) until they skip a turn to discard their hand and clear the jam. Autocannon Backfires forces the attacker to play their autocannon attack card on their own vehicle and only armor can help them against that attack. This is especially embarrassing when it breaches the attackers armor or kills the driver. Flameproof Armor make your vehicle immune to further flamethrower damage if you haven't taken any damage from flamethrowers so far in the game.

Your tires are important. Once they're destroyed you can no longer swerve to avoid damage (causing a point of damage to your tires), or spin to apply an attack to a different armor facing where you may actually have armor cards. They can take 9 point of damage before they're destroyed. They can take direct weapons fire with a Called Shot attack or with a Tire Shot card, which ignores the facing of the weapon and applies the damage to the tires instead.

Here's the back of the box.
I like Car Wars art.
There are a few other cards. Skid into wall lets you hurt anyone who just swerved or spun by doing 3 damage to the left or right side of their vehicle, your choice. It makes a great spoiler card when two players beat on each other and you can add a little extra damage to the party when you're not otherwise involved. Ramming is new in Second Edition. You do damage to the specified side, and you can follow up with an attack card to the same side if you have one. It's the only card in the deck that lets you attack twice on your turn.

The rest of the game involves shooting, avoiding damage, and revenge attacks for breaching armor. Relentless attacks for perceived slights make the best games, especially when you can pick off the weakened victor of that dogfight and win. The cards dictate what you can do in a turn, but there's some strategy available in larger games. Usually someone declares they're out of armor on a side during an earlier attack before they draw new cards, and everyone with attack cards for that facing pile on the munitions. That makes larger games take about the same amount of time as a 2 or 3 player game.

House Rules
We've implemented a house rule. Since you can clear a Machine Gun Jam by skipping your turn and drawing a new hand, we also allow skipping your turn and drawing a new hand without a Machine Gun Jam. You need to decide to skip your turn before drawing cards for your turn.

Second Edition Cards
Since Flameproof Armor as written is useless if your vehicle has already taken damage from a flamethrower, we play that it negates a single flamethrower attack regardless of how your vehicle has been damaged so far in the game.

Also, there are rules for escaping the arena. I have never even considered using them. Voluntarily leaving the arena means voluntarily leaving the fun of vehicular combat - you'll need to wheel my corpse out, preferably still strapped into the driver's seat of my Banzai.

Summary
This game can be frustrating at times when you're looking for an attack left card and all you draw is front armor, but the games cycle quickly and carnage visits everyone eventually. If someone wins a game, everyone tends to attack that person in the next game, so it all works out. I can't think of a better stress reliever than a really fun card game that encourages you to shoot your friends in a regulated and legal manner. Larger games get wild with weapons flying every which way, but it works well with 2 or 3 players as well.

If you can find a copy, buy it for fun times with armed vehicles in a short time. If you want to play, I'll have it with me at PAX East this year, Friday and Saturday. Tweet me (@twwombat) at some point so we can snag a table in the tabletop area and do our best to destroy each other.

TL;DR - Executive Summary
  • Card Game version of Steve Jackson's Car Wars.
  • Out of print, but please bug Steve Jackson for a 3rd edition.
  • For 2-6 players, and older-kid-friendly. Scales well at all sizes.
  • Games run 20-30 mins. Shoot at everyone else and try to survive.
  • Random, but well-balanced deck rarely causes frustration.
  • Special cards need some reading, but attack/armor are intuitive.
  • Excellent fun. Find me at PAX East and I'll show you.
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2012-01-31

Game Night Blog Carnival: Thunderstone

Welcome to the Game Night Blog Carnival for January 2012! You can get more information about the carnival at the main Game Night site.

In mid-December, Benoit forwarded an email to the Game Night group with a proposal. He had been contacted by Jeff Quick at AEG who proposed sending everyone in the group a free copy of Thunderstone or one of the expansions in exchange for everyone reviewing it for January's Game Night Blog Carnival. So here we are with free Thunderstone boxes on our shelves, and January is officially Thunderstone month at the Game Night Blog Carnival.

A Little Background
Before I received my copy I took a quick look online for more information about Thunderstone. It's put out by Alderac Entertainment Group (AEG), and there's a Thunderstone section of AEG's website where you can order expansions, download the rulebook, and download the rules for solo play. The base set retails for $44.95 and the Wrath of the Elements expansion retails for $34.95, which is about what I'd expect for a deckbuilding game.

I played three games with my wife before writing this review.  Just so you know where we're coming from, we really enjoy Dominion and own several expansions. We weren't as keen on Ascension since it features a random draw rather than Dominion's more strategic fixed card market.

I heard Thunderstone described as a deckbuilding game that simulates a dungeon crawl. After playing a few times, that description fits. I've only played with two players so far. I wanted to run a 4-player version to see how play changed with more players, but the random factors aligned against me on that score.

Unboxing
I love the art on the box and the cards. It's suitably dark without belaboring the point. The rules spell out the premise: Monsters will come out of the dungeon and destroy the town unless the heroes can get in there and recover the Thunderstone.

When I unwrapped the cards, they had a cross-hatched finish that felt a little cheaper than I expected, but they seem to be holding up fairly well with all the shuffling. The cards also left bits of what looks like glitter all over the box. The glitter production seems to have subsided after the first game.

The plastic insert to hold the cards feels disappointingly generic after playing with Dominion's box where every card has its own slot to live in. I found the stack of slightly taller divider cards provided to put between different card stacks. I ended up with several extra dividers, so adding expansion cards to the base set and keeping all the cards in a longbox is an option to save space given the large box. I saw no recommended organization for the cards in the rules which irked my Virgo sensibilities a little, but I got over it quickly.

Game Setup
Setup takes longer than Dominion since you're dealing with 15 random card stacks to pull across 3 categories, plus the 4 basic supply piles, plus XP and Disease cards. Shuffling the Dungeon Deck and then shuffling the Thunderstone card into the bottom third of that deck takes extra time as well. There are no treasure cards, but over half of the available cards grant you some gold for purchases in a dual-purpose approach very similar to the card game San Juan.

The basic setup consists of a 16-card marketplace containing 4 heroes for hire using gold or upgrade using XP, the 4 standard supply piles (Militia, Dagger, Iron Rations, and Torch), and 8 other cards you can buy with gold. At the top of the layout sits the Dungeon Deck filled with monsters and three monster cards laid out next to the dungeon deck to populate the dungeon. The Disease and XP cards are stacked up next to the board. In this picture they're using XP tokens instead of cards, which is fine since they never get shuffled into your deck and are only used to level up your heroes.

The Rules
The rules of play took a few read-throughs to understand. They make sense and they're in a decent order, but there's so much cross referencing of rules that it can be difficult to figure out what's going on in your first game or two. We got the Village turn fairly quickly since it's very Dominion-esque, but making sure we had the Dungeon turn correct took some doing.

The overall game seems simple enough. Take a turn to add a more powerful card to your deck from either the Village or the Dungeon, and when the Thunderstone advances to Rank 1 in the Dungeon the game ends. Each player counts up the victory points in their deck and the highest total wins.

Strategy Tip #1: Victory Points come from monsters and from advancing your heroes to level 3. Going into the Dungeon every turn you're able to defeat a monster is the sure-fire path to victory, as my wife figured out early on much to my chagrin.

The Cards
Hero cards are your main attack and ability cards. Heroes can be equipped with one Weapon card which can only weigh as much as the Hero's Strength score or less. They may provide Light or Coins, and each Hero other than Militia has abilities which make them even more powerful.

Strategy Tip #2: Upgrade your Heroes as quickly as you can. Level 3 Heroes usually have sick special abilities, and their improved attack scores make monsters much easier to defeat. Plus they're worth a couple of victory points at game end. Defeat monsters first, but if you can't do that this turn head to the Village and level up.

Taking Turns
On your turn, you take a look at your hand and choose one of three options:
  1. Go to the Village to buy one new card and upgrade any heroes you may have in your hand using XP garnered from defeating monsters.
  2. Go to the Dungeon to beat up a monster with a simple attack vs. defense mechanic and add that card to your deck as a Trophy.
  3. Rest and destroy a card from your hand. Handy for destroying Disease cards given by some monsters in the Dungeon.
If you went through a whole Thunderstone game and did nothing but go to the Village, you'd be playing a very slimmed-down version of Dominion with almost no victory points available to you. If you did nothing but go to the Dungeon, you'd be playing a slimmed-down version of Ascension with a Thunderstone card in the deck as a game-ender. But in mashing those two games together, Thunderstone provides a great dungeon crawling, hack and slash game experience.

The Light Penalty throws an extra dimension into the Dungeon battle. There are 3 ranks of monsters in the Dungeon. The closer you get to the deck, the deeper into the Dungeon you go and the darker it gets. So there's a penalty to you overall attack based on darkness. There are light items and Hero cards (the Elf Sorcerer) that give you light points to overcome the darkness and decrease the attack penalty. Some monsters incur additional light penalties, and some like the Blink Dog can hide in the darkness and not be attacked if it still has a Light Penalty. I thought this layered needless complication onto the game at first, but it's actually a pretty interesting monkey wrench to play with.

Playing The Game
We played three games which gave us a variety of results.
  1. We used the cards recommended for the first game. The Thunderstone was the second-to-last card in the Dungeon deck. My wife beat me soundly.
  2. Random cards. Abyssal, Humanoid, Ooze monsters. Thunderstone came out as card #21, the earliest it can possibly come out. My wife beat me even more soundly.
  3. Random cards. Doomknight, Humanoid, Undead: Spirit monsters. The marketplace card selection was so bad we called the game after 10 consecutive turns of being unable to go into the dungeon.
The box says a game takes about 45 minutes. Between setting up and figuring out the rules, our first game took about 2 hours, and subsequent games ended up around 60-90 minutes.

The random cards (both in initial card selection and random draw for your hand) have a huge impact on what you can do during a turn. In our third game, we had 3 fighters and a cleric available for heroes - no wizards or thieves. We also drew only one weapon and a fairly large pile of villagers who are only useful in the Village. It took a long time to get our decks even started, and with the special abilities of the monsters who destroy a fighter in combat, it turned into a hard grind. Some monsters had light penalties, and we were sorely lacking in light sources in the Village. When powerful monsters come out early, it's tough to get anything going in the Dungeon and you're stuck going back to the village and trying to pick up more powerful cards.

Overall Reactions
Overall I like the game. It's more complex but has fewer gameplay options than Dominion. I may pick up an expansion set and see if it adds more strategic options. I would love to download pre-balanced card lists from the AEG site. That would save some time during setup and prevent the issue of randomly drawing all fighters and no weapons.

The basic set feels very basic. With Dominion, you can make very different games using different card sets from the basic set. With Thunderstone, it seems very hack and slash. A couple of Hero cards allow you to force all the other players to discard a card from their hands, but that's the only direct interaction between players. One card lets you buy an extra card in the Village, and a couple let you draw extra cards in both the Village and the Dungeon. Options for expanding or altering the basic play of the game seem very limited, something I hope gets addressed in expansion packs. I mean, if you've got a thief in your hand why not take a Rest to try and steal a Trophy from your opponent's hand?

Heroes are the only cards which get scarce quickly with 2 players. There are only 2 of each Level 3 Hero card, and once they're gone you can't upgrade that Hero any more. We only ran out of one supply pile across all three games. The scarcity will become a factor with more players.

I only had 2 Heroes upgraded to Level 3 in the first game, and those 4 Victory Points could have come from a single monster instead. There's no strategy to victory that involves upgrading Heroes, especially since you need to defeat monsters to get enough XP to upgrade your Heroes. Heroes will help you kill monsters, but they won't be a significant source of victory points on their own. Given that insight, the monsters are the only cards in the game that give you victory points. This reinforces the hack and slash mentality since you must go to the dungeon whenever you can if you expect to win the game.

TL;DR - Executive Summary
  • Thunderstone is a deckbuilding game that simulates a dungeon crawl.
  • Retails for $44.95, and it has expansion sets and solo rules available.
  • Rules are complex to read, but fairly easy to pick up during play.
  • Supports 1-5 players. Works well with 2 players.
  • Slow to start, but great fun when your heroes beat up monsters in the Dungeon.
  • Biggest complaint: Bad random card selection can make a game almost unplayable.
  • Wish List: Card lists like Dominion provides - balanced card selection is key.
  • Strategy Tips: Focus on defeating Monsters and upgrading your Heroes.
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2011-09-05

Game Night Blog Carnival: Discovering and Playing Lost Cities

Welcome to the Game Night Blog Carnival for August! You can get more information about the carnival at the main Game Night site.

Lost CitiesDoes archaeology hold a special place in your heart? Do you dream of being Indiana Jones and discovering cities lost to antiquity? If so, may I suggest picking up a copy of Lost Cities and giving it a go with a friend. If you're not convinced, try the solitaire version on Facebook and see just how cool a game it is before buying a copy.

About the Cards
The box comes with a small board and a deck of oversized (Tarot-sized) cards. The cards come in five suits numbered 2 to 10, each representing a different lost city. Green shows an ancient Mayan city in the jungle, blue shows the underwater ruins of Atlantis, yellow has an Egyptian theme, white lets you find Shangri-La in the snow-covered mountains, and red leads you to a Viking stone circle in a volcano. If you arrange each suit in ascending order, the art tells the story of the journey to that lost city. The art alone is worth the $20 for the game - I could spin an RPG adventure from each random draw of the deck using nothing but background details in the art.

The only other card type in the deck are investment cards. Each suit has three investment cards, and they all share common artwork of Victorian gentlemen shaking hands across a table under a poster-sized picture of that suit's lost city. Investment cards introduce score multipliers for better or worse, and they must be played before any numbered cards are played in that suit. More on this below.

Game Play
To start, set the board between the two players. The board has an area to hold discarded cards in each suit, and it's used as an organization tool so both players can easily see all cards played in each suit. Shuffle the cards and deal a hand of eight cards to each player, leaving a draw deck next to the board for both players to use. Each turn consists of either playing or discarding a card and then drawing a card to bring your hand back up to eight cards. When playing a card, you add to the appropriate suit's stack on your side of the board. When discarding a card, place the card in the appropriate suit's discard pile on the board between the two players. Either player can draw from the deck or from any discard pile. The game ends immediately when a player takes the last card from the draw pile.

Several things make the game strategy challenging. First, each suit must be played in ascending order. If you play a 4 as your lowest red card and later draw the red 3, you can't play the 3 and should discard it. Second, all the cards will appear in the game, but your opponent will get half of them. This is especially annoying when you're waiting to fill in some cards between the 5 and 10 of a suit to get more points. Third, when you start an expedition in a suit, you start with twenty negative points to represent your initial investment in manpower and supplies. So you start "in the hole" and need to make sure you have the cards to at least break even.

Indiana Jones Adventures (D6/Masterbook)Fourth, investment cards multiply your score in a suit, whether positive or negative. Each investment card introduces a multiplier to your score in that suit: one investment card gives you x2, and three investment cards give you a x4. When you play an investment card, you have played a card in that suit so you get whacked with the 20 negative points - and here's the kicker - multiplied by the number of investment cards plus one. So if you end the game with nothing but three investment cards in a suit, that's -20 x 4 or -80 points. Quick tip: don't do that or you'll lose the game in a hurry.

Scoring
When the last card has been drawn from the deck, play stops and each player counts their score. Suits with no cards are worth no points. It's better to have a suit with nothing than to start playing a suit and fall short of breaking even. Total up the cards in each suit, subtract twenty for the initial investment, multiply by the number of investment cards plus one, and you've got your score in that suit. Each suit that contains at least eight cards earns you a bonus of twenty points. Total the points across all your suits and that's your score for the round. The typical game consists of three rounds, and the highest total score wins the game.

Reactions
The strategic elements of Lost Cities work really well. You have plenty of choices to make, but you're on a countdown clock since drawing the last card immediately ends the game. Do you start a suit with a 5 or wait to draw a lower rank in that suit before starting? Do you play investment cards or hold off to make sure you'll break even in that suit? Do you draw from the discard pile and extend the game or push to end early and play your big cards as quickly as you can? Do you play offensively and focus on building your suits or defensively and keep a card in your hand so your opponent won't pick it up and play it?

You need to find the balance between playing your hand as it stands right now and waiting for better cards to come along. If you wait too long you won't have time to play all the cards in a suit, but if you start too early you lose out on more points in a suit. It's OK to have negative points in a suit, just make sure the other suits earn more points than you lost to the suits that didn't break even. I usually focus on three suits and ignore the other two, though much of the pacing and order of the game relies on random card draws.

The Adventures of Indiana Jones: Role Playing GameIt's an infinitely replayable game since the cards change order and people make different decisions each game. Each of the five expeditions can score from -80 to 156 points, so you will see plenty of variation in score. Sometimes keeping a suit empty makes the most sense, even if you start with the 10 in your hand. With two decks you can play the four player variation, but I've only played with two players.

I heartily recommend Lost Cities, especially if you're taking a break from playing a high adventure competing archaeologist RPG setting like The Adventures of Indiana Jones or Resolute, Adventurer & Genius (download the free PDF from RPGNow).

TL;DR - Executive Summary
  • Lost Cities is Reiner Knizia's 2 player strategy card game about uncovering ancient cities.
  • It takes about 30 minutes per game to play. The balance between strategy and luck works well.
  • Play suits in ascending order. Game ends when last card is drawn from the deck.
  • You play mainly against yourself, though you can draw from your opponent's discards.
  • Great variety of player decisions, but success requires a sense of timing and balance.
  • There's a solitaire version on Facebook.
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2011-08-30

Game Night Blog Carnival: Quick & Random Monopoly Deal.

Welcome to the Game Night Blog Carnival for July! You can get more information about the carnival at the main Game Night site.


July completely blew up on me, so I'm posting two articles this month to make up for last month.

Hasbro Games Monopoly Deal Card GameDo you love Monopoly, but you're looking for a quick and portable game instead of the boring back and forth endgame? If you don't mind playing second fiddle to your card draws, consider Monopoly Deal. It's a card game for 2-4 players that takes 20 minutes or less per hand.

What You Need to Play
Grab a set of the cards for around $6 and some friends to play with. We got a set as a stocking stuffer last year, and we finally broke it out on vacation. You'll need a table for this, since trying to juggle what's been played and what's in your hand without a large flat surface gets confusing in a hurry.

Game Play
On its surface, the game is incredibly simple. Both players start with seven cards. On your turn, draw 2 cards or 5 cards if your hand is empty, then play 3 cards. You can play any combination of cards; property cards go in your property area, money cards get stacked in your bank, and action cards allow you to do something. Discard down to 8 cards at the end of your turn. That's it.

The cards control everything about the game and give it color. This version is based on the modern Monopoly set, so figures are in millions of dollars. The deck contains one card for each property on the Monopoly board, each with its own amount for rent. You also have wild cards that can add to one of two property groups - you flip the card to show the correct color stripe - plus two wild cards that work with any group.

Money cards can be played to your bank - any time you need to pay for anything, use your bank first before handing over your property cards. Here's the kicker - when you pay you don't get change. If you need to pay $4M and all you have is the $10M card, kiss it goodbye. All non-property cards have a bank value, so if you don't want to use an action card for its stated action you can bank it instead.

Action cards mimic the rest of the Monopoly rules. Rent cards allow you to collect rent from an opponent for a specific property group, netting you some cards out of their bank or some property if they're short. Action cards let you draw 2 cards, or force trades of properties, or steal properties. Some cards come straight from the Chance deck. On your birthday, every opponent gives you money. The coolest card in the deck is the "No" card. It cancels out an action card, probably saving your bacon in the process.

Game play runs the gamut from zany and fast-paced back-and-forth to almost painful one-sidedness. In a 2 player game like the most of the ones I played on vacation, if one player gets great draws the other tends to feel hamstrung waiting for some game-changing card. I imagine more players would mitigate this somewhat as more people can gang up on the leader. On the scale from Luck to Strategy, luck leads the way hands down.

It's fast. It's familiar. It's far more portable than the board game, and can be every bit as frustrating. It resets in a snap. If you want to play Monopoly in a quarter of the time, give the card game a shot.

TL;DR - Executive Summary
  • Monopoly Deal is a card game for 2-4 players that plays in less than 20 minutes.
  • First player to play, trade or steal enough to complete 3 property groups wins.
  • Random card draws make strategy secondary in game play, though wild cards help.
  • Randomness can cause frustration. I've played several games where I just hand cards to opponents.
  • Recommended as a light and quick filler game. Good for 2, but more balanced with more players.
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2011-06-29

Game Night Blog Carnival: Quick Word Game? Bananagrams!

Welcome to the Game Night Blog Carnival for June! You can get more information about the carnival at the main Game Night site.

BananagramsDo you like word games? Is Scrabble too slow for you with all those pesky turns? Is your Internet connection down so you can't play Words With Friends? If so, may I suggest shelling out $15 for a copy of Bananagrams?

What's In The Bag?
In exchange for your hard-earned cash you get a handsome banana-shaped and banana-colored cloth zipper pouch packed full of letter tiles. The distribution of letters across the 144 tiles roughly corresponds to Scrabble, but there are no points and no blanks. The instruction sheet lays out the game rules for you, including the use of silly banana-related command words: For instance, someone calls "Split!" to signal all players to turn their tiles up and start the game.

Game Play
At its core Bananagrams pits you against the other players in a race to use all your tiles to make interconnected words in a grid, Scrabble-style. You start by turning all the letter tiles face down in a pile central to all players, then each player draws a number of tiles based on the number of players. Once everyone has their tiles someone calls "Split!" and everyone turns their tiles up and starts building words as quickly as possible. You don't take turns, and you don't have a shared game board - everyone builds their own word grid with their own tiles. You can remove words from your grid and rearrange letters to make different words at any time.

You have the option of dumping a tile you can't use back in the central pile, but you draw 3 tiles to replace it. This really helps if you have a letter you're stuck on or if you have a Q and no U. Once someone uses all their letter tiles in their word grid, that person calls "Peel!" and every player draws one more tile from the central pile. Sometimes one person gets on a roll of adding single tiles to their grid and calls "Peel!" several times in a row, but sometimes having more letters to work with lets another player add a longer word to their grid all at once and catch up, so it tends to even out.

Once the central pile has fewer tiles than the number of players, we call "Last Licks" (a throwback to Cosmic Wimpout) to let everyone know that the game is almost over. The first player to use all their letters during Last Licks wins the game. Endgame variations exist where the winner needs to tell a story using all the words in their grid, or the player with the most creative or unusual word on the table gets a prize. And if you're with the right crowd, some of the words can get a little silly.

On Kids and Crowds
Kids can get into this game, allowing a fun way to teach spelling and expand vocabularies with a short time investment per game. The instructions suggest ages 7 and up, and that seems about right since it requires a decent vocabulary and good spelling skills. If you're an adult playing with kids you can vary the rules easily to figure out how to keep the game fun for everyone. Rules variations include giving fewer tiles to start and slowing the action down to allow more time to make words before drawing more tiles.

I've played with 2 players up to 6 or 7. Playing with 2 is still fun, but it's more likely that one player will drive the action with tile draws. Playing with 4-6 gives more people the chance to use all their tiles and force a tile draw, but more players tends to mean drawing tiles more often which can bury people who are stuck with problem letters. Larger groups make for a faster game since there are fewer tiles to draw, but you can always pick up a Double Bananagrams Game Set with 288 tiles to support larger groups. For me, 4 players gives the optimum pacing without being overwhelmed in tiles.

Parting Shots
Bananagrams is easy to learn, inexpensive, compact, and portable. It can fit in a large purse, a backback, or your car's glovebox easily. If you're going camping I wouldn't pack it - the tiles make it heavier than a small dice game like Cosmic Wimpout or Zombie Dice, plus it requires a smooth table to play effectively. As an added bonus, you can use the letter tiles in your RPG: either as props for word puzzles or as terrain for miniatures (walls or raised platforms especially).

The one drawback to Bananagrams I've found: it's not for everybody. People who need time to think up words tend to lag a bit behind, and that makes the game less fun for them. But when a table full of people with roughly the same skill level sit down to play, the game play gets brutally fast. I think four of us played a few games in about 5 minutes each, and several times we had two people calling "Peel!" simultaneously.

If you enjoy fast word games and have friends that can challenge you in that arena, I highly recommend picking up a copy of Bananagrams.

TL;DR - Executive Summary
  • Bananagrams is a race to build interlocking words Scrabble-style out of a pile of letter tiles. 
  • Play Bananagrams as a party game. You will need a table or other hard and smooth surface, preferably without a tablecloth. Great for kids with growing vocabularies.
  • It supports 2-8 players, ages 7 and up. Sweet spot is 4 players, balancing chaos vs. concentration.
  • It takes 10-15 minutes to play a single game, depending on player skill.
  • Bananagrams rewards fast word-making, so it can be frustrating to someone not mentally wired for coming up with words in a hurry.
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2011-06-01

Game Night Blog Carnival: What Bohnanza has taught me.

Here's my entry in Roving Band of Misfits' very first Game Night Blog Carnival. I tripped across it on the last Tuesday of May, when articles are due, and signed up immediately. If you're interested in reviewing non-RPG games on the last Tuesday of every month, click on through and join us!

Bohnanza
Bohnanza GameOne of my favorite card games, Bohnanza fulfills the dreams of vegetarian gamers everywhere. Players assume the role of bean farmers and try to make as much money as possible by planting and selling beans. And right now you're absolutely riveted, teetering on the edge of your seat, I can tell. But this game brushes up your trading skills and provides the most fun you can have giving away stuff short of the philanthropic stylings of The Gates Foundation.

The Deck
Each card contains a picture of a bean and a number telling you how many beans of that type are in the deck. I have a German copy of the game, which very few of my friends speak. We made up names for our beans based solely on the art: barfy beans, fire beans, hippie beans, etc. Yes, they have actual names in English, but we prefer our colloquialisms thank you very much.

The number on each card indicates a card's rarity. There are 4 cocoa beans on the rare end, all the way up to 24 coffee beans on the common end. The rarity of the bean determines how many beans you need to plant to get gold coins. You earn 1-4 coins depending on how many beans you have in a field when you cash in. Cocoa beans can be cashed in for one gold each, but you need to plant at least 2. On the other end of the spectrum, you need 4 coffee beans to get 1 gold and 12 to get 4 gold.

Game Play
Each player is dealt a hand of cards to start the game. Cards in your hand must remain in order - no sorting by bean type or manual reordering of your hand is allowed, but cards can be traded away to make room and cue up cards you want to plant. This motivates you to trade with other players, and when desperation sets in you actually throw beans at people for free.

On your turn, you plant one or two beans from the "top" of your hand into your two bean fields. Only one bean type at a time can exist in a field so if you've got a new bean type that needs to be planted, you need to burn one of your already-planted fields even if that means you get no gold for it. We call this situation A Bad Thing, so pay attention to your hand and trade your face off.

After planting, you turn up 2 cards from the deck for trading stock. Anything you don't trade must be planted immediately, so trade wisely and give away that which will cause A Bad Thing. All trades must happen with the person whose turn it is, but anyone can make offers. Any bean that gets traded must be planted immediately. Some trading sessions can get rowdy - this makes the game that much more fun as the bidding wars mount and people start offering intangibles like "a return favor at a future time" or "my undying love". We usually see a handful of beans flying across the table for free in the unofficial "dumping crap" phase tacked onto the end of trading.

After trades are settled and any untraded beans left on the table get planted, draw 3 cards and add them to the "bottom" of your hand. Congratulations, you have more cards to trade. Play passes to the next player. You can also buy a third bean field for three gold at any time if you want, but most times it's better to save your gold and stick with two fields.

Once you run out of cards to draw, reshuffle the discard pile and start a new deck. Once you've depleted the deck after the second shuffle, you're done. Sell all your fields and count your gold. The person with the most gold wins.

Game Tips
You can analyze the hell out of trades if you want. I wouldn't be surprised if someone has studied how well the trading mechanic models the stock market as part of a thesis hidden somewhere in Academia. Sometimes people plant a type of bean simply because nobody else at the table has any fire beans. You can see supply and demand in action at your game table. Awesome!

But here's the thing: if you analyze the game you will make it drag both pacing-wise and fun-wise. Personally I have no memory of who won any game of Bohnanza ever, and I have never cared who wins. But I remember the negotiations and the trading. Scoring invariably comes down to a difference of one gold which floors me every time just on the cool factor, but I'm more interested in shuffling the deck and getting started with the next game to get on with the wheeling and dealing. Both Bohnanza and RPGs have this in common: they provide fun through playing rather than through "winning".

What has playing Bohnanza taught me?
Play from the gut. Don't be afraid to let personal preference cloud your judgement on which trade to accept, even if you know you're shooting yourself in the foot gold-wise. Make the game fun for everyone and you'll have more fun. Petty vendettas make trading ten times more fun for everyone at the table. Just playing the game and letting yourself get into trading will blow the rust off of your social skills and turn you into a wheeler-dealer in no time.

If you're looking for a fun trading game to play with a fair-sized group of friends, choose Bohnanza and prepare to laugh your fool head off. I heartily recommend it.

TL;DR - Executive Summary
  • Bohnanza is a massively fun card game built entirely around trading with other players. 
  • Play Bohnanza as a party game. You can play strategically, but play slows and overall fun withers.
  • It officially supports 2-7 players. I've played with 10-12, but the sweet spot is 5 to 7 players.
  • It takes 45-90 minutes to play a single game. Game play takes longer with more players. It can seem to take forever with overly-analytical players.
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